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John Deere 33 Tiller Manual Pdf
Craftsman Tiller Manual

Publications for Model '33 ROTARY TILLER BASE UNIT' Following is a listing of all publications matching the search criteria. Publications available in electronic format are indicated by a hyperlinked Part Number. Visit the to purchase Operator's Manuals, Parts Catalogs, Technical Manuals, and other publications that are not available in electronic format. Publication Type Part Number Title Language Operator's Manual OMM49211 33 Integral Rotary Tiller English Parts Catalog PC1092 33 Tractor-Mounted Tiller English Parts Catalog CD-ROM PC1092CD 33 Tractor-Mounted Tiller English Flat Rate Manual FRM108 Grounds Care Products English Operators Manual CD-ROM OMM49211CD 33 Integral Rotary Tiller English.

John Deere 33 Tiller Operators Manual

Benchtest.Com - Garage - Rebuilding the Deere 33 Tiller - 3 Jim's Garage Rebuilding a Deere 33 Tiller - part 3 September 26, 2012 Slipper Clutch When I disassembled the slipper clutch, I found that the outboard clutch disk was in bad shape. The inner hole was egg shaped and it appeared that the disk had not been aligned on whatever kept it centered in the clutch pack. I figured that it might have been assembled wrong, but put off judgment until I had the time to focus on it. Now was the time.

John Deere 33 Tiller Manual Pdf

Jan 04, 2018 JOHN DEERE 33 TILLER MANUAL The following JOHN DEERE 33 TILLER MANUAL Pdf file begin with Intro, Brief Session until the Index/Glossary page, look at the table of content for more information, when. Jun 25, 2020 Bob2274. I just purchased a 1989 John Deere 332 tractor with a 30 inch hydro tiller. The tiller is not attached, I have been able to bolt the tiller to the tractor, but I am unable to figure out how to attach the tiller pump to the tractor. It apparently bolts to the rear of the tractor and runs off of two belts, but again, I can not figure out. Rebuilding a Deere 33 Tiller August 22, 2012. I'd been looking for a John Deere number 33 tiller for my garden tractor for couple of years. In my area they come available only once in a while and they're usually priced pretty high for their (poor) condition. Since this piece of machinery weighs a couple hundred pounds, buying one from out of state isn't really something I'd pay to have shipped.

Fresh from the solvent tank. You can see the egg-shaped hole in the one clutch disk. The Deere parts diagram for the clutch assembly. The bushing in question is part #7. The slipper clutch is a pretty simple device. It is designed to allow the sprocket (#8) to slip between the clutch disks (2 pieces shown as #6) if the tines should stop due to hitting a large root or rock.

I purchased a pair of new disks from Deere and after cleaning the clutch pack, I assembled the clutch so I could see why the outboard disk inside hole had been worn away. What I found surprised me. The bushing (#7) that the sprocket rides on didn't seem to be wide enough to support both the sprocket and the clutch disks. The clutch pack is assembled as follows: The support plate (#10) has a collar (#9) that centers the bushing (#7) which has a thickness of about 0.320'. The first clutch disk which is about 1/8' thick fits over the bushing.

This leaves another 3/16' of the bushing to mount the sprocket on - meaning that the bushing only comes a little more than half-way through the sprocket. Once you add the second clutch disk, there is no bushing protruding to support the inner hole of the clutch disk. Of course it is going to flop around since it's not supported. Chilton automotive repair manual.

My question was what could have possibly happened that would cause this. I wouldn't have expected the engineers at Deere to design it this way. The clutch disks (part number M43389) are now listed the same for all models. However I have a very early tiller - serial 2549 - and the rear clutch plate (#10 - hub) mounts on a 3/4' shaft. After serial number 8628, the shaft size was increased to 1'. From the JD parts listing, the collar (#9 - bushing) doesn't change after serial 8628, so it appears that they just reamed the hole from 3/4' to 1' without changing the outer dimensions.

The bushing that the sprocket rides on does change, but not until serial 488001. Even if the bushing was made to be thicker at that point, would Deere have shipped almost a half million tillers with the outer clutch disk left unsupported? That seems a little hard to believe. With the rear clutch disk and sprocket installed, the bronze bushing doesn't even reach to the top if the sprocket inner hole. As you can see, the bronze bushing isn't tall enough to support the outboard clutch disk. The disk is free to flop around. Very strange.

I did some more thinking on the issue. Another possibility was that if the bushing was a press fit on the sprocket and evenly centered, there'd be 0.027' of bushing on either side of the sprocket to support the pair of disks. I wouldn't think that would be enough bushing to support the disks, but perhaps I am wrong. Oh well, I've done enough speculation on what might have happened. At this point, my issue was what could I do to fix it? What I decided to do was to machine a new bushing that was thick enough to support both clutch disks and the sprocket.

The new question was how thick to make the bushing. If I made the thickness equal to the thickness of the two clutch disks and the sprocket, as soon as the disks wore even a slight amount, the disks would slip between the two hubs (#5, #10). That wouldn't do. I decided on making the bushing thick enough to support the inner clutch disk, the sprocket and a portion of the way through the outer clutch disk.

John Deere 33 Tiller Manual Pdf

That should allow for each clutch disk to wear a bit before I would have trouble with the sprocket slipping due to the bushing's interference. To make a new bushing, I decided to use some aluminum that I had on hand. Bronze/Oilite would wear better, but I didn't have any bronze large enough and there really shouldn't be much wear on the bushing unless I am trying to till a boulder field - hopefully that's something that I will try to stay away from. To make the bushing, I started by boring the center hole to 3.006' and facing the front side flat. Making the last facing cut on the new aluminum bushing. I chucked up some 6061 aluminum scrap and bored a hole to 3.006'. The original bushing's inside diameter measured 3.010' and it was a little loose on the 3' collar (#9 bush), so I reduced the diameter a bit.

I then faced the side of the bushing flat. I changed chucks to one that could grip the inside diameter and turned the outside diameter to 3.495'.

Of the original bushing was 3.490'. This would be a close slip-fit on the 3.5' bore of the sprocket and clutch disks. I then faced the other side until I reduced the thickness of the bushing to 0.495'. This would give me 0.075' of wear on the total thickness of the two clutch disks before the bushing would interfere with clamping action of the slipper clutch.

The combined thickness of both disks and sprocket was 0.570'. The sprocket thickness was 0.320' and each clutch disk was 0.125'. If I find that the clutch disks wear quickly and they end up slipping, I can always reduce the thickness of the bushing to compensate for the wear.

Accessing the clutch pack is a pretty simple job. You can see the difference in thickness between the new aluminum bushing and the stock bronze one.

The rear collar is also shown. If you enlarge the image, you'll see that there is now just a slight step between the height of the disk and the new bushing. No more floppy clutch disk. Once I had the new bushing machined, I compared the parts, then assembled the clutch pack on the bench.

I measured the difference in height between the bushing and the top face of the outboard clutch disk. It was very close to my projected 0.075' estimate. Update: While re-reading through the original manual that was shipped with the tiller, I came across a picture that seems to allude to the fact that the bushing was press fit into the sprocket. The sprocket is shown with the bushing installed and not as a separate part as it appears in the JD parts picture. Just enough bushing protrudes from the sprocket to center both clutch disks. While I didn't see any wear on the outer diameter of the the original Oilite bushing and the inner bore of the sprocket didn't appear to be polished from the bushing spinning in the sprocket, it is still possible that the bushing was a light press fit in the sprocket. This new information does not change my mind about my repair.

In the worst case scenario I may hav